Friday, July 31, 2009

Sulphurville to Windy Welly

Kia Ora from Hutt Valley!
So our Rotorua itinerary didn't exactly go as planned, but we had a wonderful day all the same. The morning began early in hopes of catching the Lady Knox Geyser's daily 10:15 am eruption in Wai-O-Tapo geothermal Park, but good old Tom (gps for all you Americans) had a slightly more scenic and harrowing route in mind for us-delaying our arrival to about 10:16. We decided to play in the geothermal pools anyway which are supposedly the best and most colorful in all of New Zealand! We learned a lot about geothermal activity but the most valuable lesson was definitely that “pool” does not always mean bring your swimming trunks. A dive into the foggy bubbling pools of yellow, red, and neon green probably would have turned us into sulphur scented biohazards. Beneath the thick layer of fog was Champagne Lake, which was left by the most destructive volcano of the past 5,000 years. The feeling of the park fell somewhere between the Jurassic Park movie set and a kind of nuclear wasteland--but thanks to Mother Nature I now know neon green is a color found in nature and don’t feel so guilty eating green skittles.
The best part of the day was definitely Waiketo Springs, where finally we found hot spring baths. Let me tell you the off-season is a glorious thing- for NZ$12 we could lounge in hot baths against a backdrop of green rolling hills and hear distant mooing for as long as we wanted AND the place was nearly tourist-free. Heaven.
We started our drive to Taupo after taking full advantage of the free showers (because you never really know what you‘re going to find at the nightly campsites). Along the way we stopped at a very cheesy roadside attraction where I could taunt an entire colony of bees from behind a securely placed piece of glass after a life spent fearing the allergic reaction a bee sting would cause. Luckily we managed to escape bee paraphernalia free, though the honey mead was a close call.
I wish I could say we basked in the beauty of the biggest lake in New Zealand, Lake Taupo, but I am equally happy to report being here did not stop me from seeing Harry Potter in theaters. We’ve been lucky to have fantastic weather thus far, but our morning in Taupo was dampened a bit by an unwelcome downpour, so what else are two media scholars to do? Three exhilarating hours later we began our drive to Napier, the North Island’s Art-Deco capital. After I tried on about 50 different flapper-esque feathery hairpieces and Jamie several jazzy tophats, we stumbled into Hawke’s Bay Museum. The first few rooms were full of very intricate Maori carvings and textiles which were fortunately being kept in storage when an earthquake hit Napier in 1931 and completely wiped the town out; at which point the townspeople decided to rebuild almost exclusively in Art-Deco fashion. The town was truly beautiful, if a bit Stepford-like. The gardens were apparently unphased by winter’s chill and were full of brightly colored flowers and sparkling fountains that opened into a sunny boardwalk alongside the Pacific.
Next up was the New Zealand National Aquarium which finally promised Kiwi birds! Though there were only two, they were much larger than expected and not unlike the rest of New Zealand, possessed an other-worldly quality. It’s no wonder they are extinct though--without wings what good is a bird? Or so Darwin might have you believe. Our hunt for a campervan mascot is still fruitless, even after visiting Hastings, Palmerston North, and spending a brief time along Wellington’s many bays since yesterday morning. We were impressed by the waterfront homes in New Zealand’s windy capital though. And we’ll spend tomorrow exploring the city in greater depth.



Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Pictures!


Emily climbing one of the weird trees to be found around Auckland.

The view of Auckland at night from our 19th floor hotel room.

Me in a tree at the foot of Mt. Eden.

At the summit of Mt. Eden.

The sacred Te Ipu Kai a Mataaho crater which sits overlooking the city of Auckland.

The Sky Tower over Victoria Street in the city centre.

The interior of our campervan, Leland.

Leland at the side of the road heading away from Whitianga.

Emily standing over Otama Beach on the north coast.

Emily on the empty Otama Beach in the middle of winter.

Me driving the beast.

Monday, July 27, 2009

Update from Rotorua

Hello again! Time to update you on our activities from the last few days and our plans for today. I'll upload a batch of the photos I've been taking too - but not the complete collection, so there will be others to look forward to when we don't have restricted access to the internet.

After our first night in Auckland, Friday 24th July saw us explore the other side of the City of Sails. We got breakfast in the city centre before wandering up Victoria Street to see the Sky Tower (although we could have seen it from anywhere in Auckland...) which is a giant needle standing 328m as the tallest structure in the southern hemisphere. Even though going up to the top stretched beyond our budget, we had a brief look around inside, and then moved on to the famous Victoria Park Market, a treasure trove of souvenirs and trinkets.

Later on, we got a different spectacular view of the city and its surroundings, from a more natural (and free) vantage point than the Sky Tower would have offered, atop Mt. Eden, or Maungawhau. It took us over an hour to work our way up winding paths to the summit, but once there we peered into the 50m deep sacred crater called Te Ipu Kai a Mataaho. When we came back down, we spent the dusk wandering around the accompanying Mt. Eden village, and headed back to Auckland.

On Saturday morning (my birthday!), we grabbed breakfast in the trendy neighbouring region of Ponsonby until it was time to pick up our campervan - our home on wheels for the next two weeks. A shuttle bus took us back to the rental place near the airport, where we we given instuctional videos and documentation until we almost couldn't stand the anticipation anymore. When we finally got to see it, they said we had been upgraded for free to a slightly larger model, standing at 7.2m in length. Both inside and out, the campervan looked enourmous, and it took me a few laps of the block before I was confident enough to take him (we dubbed it 'Leland') on the open Kiwi road.

From the cabin of the van, we got our first real insight into the New Zealand landscape. The hills and greenery provided stunning views, and each one seemed to outdo the last in terms of magnitude and beauty. By the time we got to the winding roads, veering their way up the sides of the hills, we were speechless. Several times we pulled over at the side of the road just to take in the view, and so there are plenty of photos to be shown...

We headed towards Whitianga on the Coromandel penisula, on the north coast of the North Island. We rolled into our first campsite just outside of the tiny resort town, which was pretty straightforward because of our arriving in the off-season (don't forget it's winter here). Maintenance of the campervan was a bit daunting at first, however, but once we worked out how to plug the electricity in, turn the gas on and hook up to water, we got the hang of things. We had a very modest dinner on Leland's gas hob before turning in for the night.

The following morning we got to explore the beaches of the peninsula, starting with Buffalo Bay in Whitianga, which lead (via ferry) to the incredible Flaxmill Bay. Presumably this part of the region was more of a holiday spot for locals than for tourists, as there were plenty of privately owned holiday homes, and very few vacationers. We felt like we were well off the beaten track, which was nice. A little further north up the coast was Otama Beach where, despite it being the middle of winter, we enjoyed a perfect blue sky on a nearly empty sandy beach.

Heading through Coromandel Town and south through Thames on our way to Cambridge, Emily got her first chance to drive Leland on the first straight roads we encountered. She describes it as 'terrifying', but successfully navigated the 'wrong' side of the road to our next campsite.

On Monday 27th, we met up with one of Emily's old academic supervisors from Muhlenberg, Sue, who took us to breakfast and showed us around Cambridge town. She provided Emily with useful insight into being an American coping in New Zealand, while I had to say that New Zealand doesn't seem to be fundamentally different from what I'm used to in the UK (even if things are a little backwards)... We were shown Sue and Don's stock of cows, before we said goodbye and headed down to Rotorua, famous for its hot thermal springs, where we are this morning. The smell of sulphur in the air is extraordinary, and fills the campervan whenever we open the doors.

Although we didn't get to experience any real hot springs yesterday, we plan to spend today driving towards Wai-O-Tapu and Kerosene Creek where we can watch the natural occurence of a geyser, before taking in some authentic Maori cultural performances in Whakarewarewa.

(Photos to follow.)

Thursday, July 23, 2009

City of Sails?

We arrived in Auckland today after what felt like days of travel. We dipped our feet in the Pacific during our layover in LA and technically 2 days later, we looked at that same ocean from our 19th floor hotel room in New Zealand's largest city.

We spent the day wandering around the city waiting for our hotel room to be ready and fighting off crankiness (me) and extreme exhaustion (probably me again). Walked east to Newmarket through the park near Auckland Museum full of really strange Dr. Suess looking trees that had roots that seemed to go for blocks. We sorted out some practical things such as phones and bank accounts and decided life in New Zealand is quite easy, especially since no one seemed to care that we would be staying in the country for 12 months with the "unemployed" box checked. OH and the airport used BEAGLES as drug dogs, very threatening...but it does go hand in hand with the very friendly dispositions of all service people we've interacted with. We finished the day with a nice meal at a very trendy Indonesian/thai/malaysian restaurant. yum.

All in all the day/days of travel make this Auckland arrival pretty surreal. Tomorrow will be spent letting it sink in after some much needed sleep.

Monday, July 20, 2009

The trip begins...

We're going to New Zealand tomorrow. And we'll get there after about 1,000,000 hours on a plane.

Friday, July 3, 2009

can she do it?

I am about to embark on the most challenging adventure of my life...

fitting a year's worth of clothing into one suitcase.

Thursday, July 2, 2009

Introduction...

A blog to document our antipodean adventure.